An integral part of every trainee’s hub experience is the period of time when they shadow a currently serving volunteer. It gives us the experience of traveling out on our own: negotiating patwa, being white in a sea of very dark complexions, accepting the invariable truth that is running late and moving from taxi to bus with no discernable labeling system other than the shouting conductors. Once travel is conquered, shadowing offers the obviously incomparable experience of seeing how a Peace Corps Volunteer successfully (or unsuccessfully in some cases) manages life socially and professionally among Jamaicans.
I had the fortune of traveling with two other trainees, Vinai and Jackie. The three of us were headed to Morant Bay in St. Thomas Parish where Vinai would stay with his volunteer and Jackie and I would proceed with the help of our volunteer, Sarah, who lives in a town about an hour away, in a river valley, nestled between some very steep and deforested mountains.
Our task was to taxi from Woodford to Papine, bus from Papine to Kingston, bus from Kingston to Morant Bay and then taxi to Sarah’s home, about an hour north. Taxi’s here have one beginning point and one ending point, and all drivers of all vehicles get paid per person not by distance SO taxi’s do not leave until they are full, and then add people along the way. This of course means that taxi drivers have been known to fit 6-8 passengers in a four door wagon. Additionally, car inspections here either don’t exist or are not enforced so that vehicles may not have interior upholstery, or may require special measures to start. Finally, there are big yellow coach-like busses which are government funded, and then there are smaller bus-type-vans that seat about 32 and are more on par with taxis in how they operate. One person drives and another hangs out the door shouting the destination while still another walks up and down the bus park shouting and ushering people in. These bus’ are often decorated and playing music. On our way into Kingston from Papine, our bus had the words ‘mi nuh waan see nuh man sit pon di front!’ meaning the driver only wants ladies sitting near him. This bus was also stopped mid route for about 45 minutes while they repaired it and we sat, waiting.
ANYWAY. I could go on for a while about this but moving on. Sarah is famously one of the most well integrated volunteers on Island, so living with her was like learning from a master: intimidating and inspiring. She has several projects, chats patwa with everyone from the pickney to the women in their yards, the farmers in the bush and old and young men alike and dates a man from town. She is locking her hair and is respectfully called “brownin” by those in her community, who loved her completely the day she rode a donkey two hours through the bush to weed carrots on a farm plot- not something any woman in town would be caught dead doing. The best advice I’ve learned from most volunteers is to do something surprising and awesome, get them to notice you for something besides your skin color or your poom poom (vagina)- street cred, they call it.
Sarah’s main project is to construct containment dams, which are built in the gullies that water makes coming down the mountain. Farmers have grazed their livestock so heavily and burned so frequently that the ground cover is simply a peach fuzz of grass blades, and heavy rains have been known to bury houses under feet and feet of soil (last time in 2004). The dams are meant to catch the soil before it reaches the houses, while allowing the water to flow through them.


We hiked through a gully to see some dams and then hiked up, up, up to see the reforestation project- trying to plant seedlings in the barren earth. The view was also breathtaking.


As we sat, regaining our breath in the shade and chatting, some men came through- one old Rasta and two other men who Sarah knew. They and their donkey were on their way into the bush to visit their farm plot, did we want to come along for some sugar cane? Why, yes, we would! And so I found myself in the most curious of hiking crews: Donkey in front attached by a rope to the shoeless and shirtless Rasta man who was chat-chat-chatting along with Sarah about politics, people, the land and all sorts of other things I could’t follow, behind her the other man, then I, Jackie and the third man with his wafting ganja smoke behind. The forest changed abruptly to pine trees, bringing with it comforting smells of home, confusing sights of bamboo and mango mixed in and increased political chatter from the front of the line, as the pine trees are not native, not good for the soil and are planted by the government for lumber production (and reforestration- so they say). We arrived to the plot to find lush, lush everything growing everywhere- a true Rasta man, growing organic, patient and careful, and proud of his land and what grows there. We sat about gnawing on sugar cane and chatting, and upon leaving to get lunch at a dam construction site were presented with a sack full of produce to carry home, along with three 4ft long pieces of cane.



We headed back, and after about an hour realized we had no idea where we were. Sarah, in Jamaican fashion, had no minutes on her phone and her supervisor, it turns out, had none either. Through phone borrowing on his end we connected and he advised us to turn around and walk back, calling to him, and he’d come try to meet us. About 25 minutes into this crazyness we met a farmer on his way back to the community and our exhausted, sweating and hungry bodies willingly followed, along with the 3 canes of sugar and sack of produce full of carrots and yams and more cane.
We arrived home, anxiously showered and positively feasted on a dinner of steamed lionfish (serious invasive species everywhere this side of the Americas) which I had never had before and was thrilled to learn that I actually liked it a lot.
Anyway, this post is getting very long, thanks for sticking to it if you’ve gotten this far. The ride home was pretty uneventful today, we arrived back to the lush Woodford mountains and had another interview with Dan, to see how our minds have shifted- Dan is as confident as ever in my abilities and very excited to see me assimilate into my community, which of course has me positively squirming to just KNOW already.
Gotta plan another Eco Camp tomorrow for Friday, I’m exhausted and expect to sleep well tonight. Peace and Love to you all and may your dreams be as sweet as sugar cane<3
I had the fortune of traveling with two other trainees, Vinai and Jackie. The three of us were headed to Morant Bay in St. Thomas Parish where Vinai would stay with his volunteer and Jackie and I would proceed with the help of our volunteer, Sarah, who lives in a town about an hour away, in a river valley, nestled between some very steep and deforested mountains.
Our task was to taxi from Woodford to Papine, bus from Papine to Kingston, bus from Kingston to Morant Bay and then taxi to Sarah’s home, about an hour north. Taxi’s here have one beginning point and one ending point, and all drivers of all vehicles get paid per person not by distance SO taxi’s do not leave until they are full, and then add people along the way. This of course means that taxi drivers have been known to fit 6-8 passengers in a four door wagon. Additionally, car inspections here either don’t exist or are not enforced so that vehicles may not have interior upholstery, or may require special measures to start. Finally, there are big yellow coach-like busses which are government funded, and then there are smaller bus-type-vans that seat about 32 and are more on par with taxis in how they operate. One person drives and another hangs out the door shouting the destination while still another walks up and down the bus park shouting and ushering people in. These bus’ are often decorated and playing music. On our way into Kingston from Papine, our bus had the words ‘mi nuh waan see nuh man sit pon di front!’ meaning the driver only wants ladies sitting near him. This bus was also stopped mid route for about 45 minutes while they repaired it and we sat, waiting.
ANYWAY. I could go on for a while about this but moving on. Sarah is famously one of the most well integrated volunteers on Island, so living with her was like learning from a master: intimidating and inspiring. She has several projects, chats patwa with everyone from the pickney to the women in their yards, the farmers in the bush and old and young men alike and dates a man from town. She is locking her hair and is respectfully called “brownin” by those in her community, who loved her completely the day she rode a donkey two hours through the bush to weed carrots on a farm plot- not something any woman in town would be caught dead doing. The best advice I’ve learned from most volunteers is to do something surprising and awesome, get them to notice you for something besides your skin color or your poom poom (vagina)- street cred, they call it.
Sarah’s main project is to construct containment dams, which are built in the gullies that water makes coming down the mountain. Farmers have grazed their livestock so heavily and burned so frequently that the ground cover is simply a peach fuzz of grass blades, and heavy rains have been known to bury houses under feet and feet of soil (last time in 2004). The dams are meant to catch the soil before it reaches the houses, while allowing the water to flow through them.
We hiked through a gully to see some dams and then hiked up, up, up to see the reforestation project- trying to plant seedlings in the barren earth. The view was also breathtaking.
As we sat, regaining our breath in the shade and chatting, some men came through- one old Rasta and two other men who Sarah knew. They and their donkey were on their way into the bush to visit their farm plot, did we want to come along for some sugar cane? Why, yes, we would! And so I found myself in the most curious of hiking crews: Donkey in front attached by a rope to the shoeless and shirtless Rasta man who was chat-chat-chatting along with Sarah about politics, people, the land and all sorts of other things I could’t follow, behind her the other man, then I, Jackie and the third man with his wafting ganja smoke behind. The forest changed abruptly to pine trees, bringing with it comforting smells of home, confusing sights of bamboo and mango mixed in and increased political chatter from the front of the line, as the pine trees are not native, not good for the soil and are planted by the government for lumber production (and reforestration- so they say). We arrived to the plot to find lush, lush everything growing everywhere- a true Rasta man, growing organic, patient and careful, and proud of his land and what grows there. We sat about gnawing on sugar cane and chatting, and upon leaving to get lunch at a dam construction site were presented with a sack full of produce to carry home, along with three 4ft long pieces of cane.
We headed back, and after about an hour realized we had no idea where we were. Sarah, in Jamaican fashion, had no minutes on her phone and her supervisor, it turns out, had none either. Through phone borrowing on his end we connected and he advised us to turn around and walk back, calling to him, and he’d come try to meet us. About 25 minutes into this crazyness we met a farmer on his way back to the community and our exhausted, sweating and hungry bodies willingly followed, along with the 3 canes of sugar and sack of produce full of carrots and yams and more cane.
We arrived home, anxiously showered and positively feasted on a dinner of steamed lionfish (serious invasive species everywhere this side of the Americas) which I had never had before and was thrilled to learn that I actually liked it a lot.
Anyway, this post is getting very long, thanks for sticking to it if you’ve gotten this far. The ride home was pretty uneventful today, we arrived back to the lush Woodford mountains and had another interview with Dan, to see how our minds have shifted- Dan is as confident as ever in my abilities and very excited to see me assimilate into my community, which of course has me positively squirming to just KNOW already.
Gotta plan another Eco Camp tomorrow for Friday, I’m exhausted and expect to sleep well tonight. Peace and Love to you all and may your dreams be as sweet as sugar cane<3